Dandy Footwear - The World of the Bespoke Shoe

For years, I spent countless hours reading about and researching the dandy phenomenon.  George Brummel, Oscar Wilde, Swann from Proust's "Remembrance..."--these were the men of my scholarly dreams and my waking moments as well.  The one concept that is most consistently embraced by the dandy, whether it's in the 18th century or the 21st century incarnation, is fashion should fit.  Not just your body "type"--a suit in your "size" isn't enough.  It must be custom.  George "Beau" Brummel required multiple glove makers to make his gloves, each specializing in the contours of only one of his hands.  And this practice does not end with one's hands.

Consider the foot.  Shoe history tells us that until the 19th century left and right were considered equal.  Compare the soles of a pair of 1810 slippers with those of a century later and you will note that the 19th century's soles are uniformly straight, meaning that neither shoe was destined for one foot or the other, but could be worn on both.

But bespoke shoes, shoes made to fit a last mirroring one specific person's feet, left and right, go beyond recognizing the need for a left shoe and right shoe.  These shoes are the province of men like Brummel and Swann and continue to be an important part of the executive dandy's wardrobe today.

Typically made by family firms with history's dating to centuries past, the custom shoe is entering the 21st century with the introduction of new technology.  Today, 3-D printers in conjunction with specialized software, can create completely custom shoes which take into consideration the subtle differences in gait possessed by each individual.  However, modern technology has still not caught up with the more subtle art of the bespoke shoe maker--those individuals who see not just their client's soles but their spirit in the shoes they make.

Consider Olga Berlutti.  This woman has made herself a slave to men's feet, working with client's such as Picasso, Jean Cocteau, and Andy Warhol with an almost monk-like devotion.

Other bespoke manufacturer's are known only to their clients, offering their services on a referral basis only.  What can you expect to pay for a pair of bespoke shoes?  As the old saying goes, if you have to ask, you can't afford it...